How a Makeup Artist Covers Up Melasma

In the pursuit of a smooth, even-toned complexion, skincare products may not always do the trick — especially if you have melasma. Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation that presents itself in brown and grayish patches all over the face. It can be caused by pregnancy, and is a chronic condition, meaning that even your favorite vitamin C serums and brightening treatments won’t be able to fade the dark patches completely. However, if your melasma bothers you, there are two easy steps you can follow to help cover it up with makeup. Keep reading to find out how, with tips courtesy of celebrity makeup artist Colby Smith.

How to Cover Melasma With Makeup

Step 1: Color Correct

“The trick to covering melasma is to color correct,” says Smith. “Since the areas are slightly darker, they can make your foundation look gray.” He recommends applying a light layer of a neutral orange corrector to create a more even base before foundation. If you have a dark skin tone, we suggest reaching for the Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear Camouflage Corrector in the shade Orange Red. For fair to medium skin tones, opt for the shade Peach. A little goes a long way with color corrector, so apply the product sparingly at first and soften the edges with a small blending brush. 

Step 2: Apply Foundation

“Next, apply your regular foundation on top with a damp beauty sponge,” Smith says. “I love the IT Cosmetics CC Cream for a medium to full-coverage finish. It has a beautiful, skin-like texture that you can sheer out in areas you need less coverage, but also build up over the melasma.” The formula contains broad-spectrum SPF 50 and is loaded with collagen, peptides and antioxidants to give your complexion a boost of radiance. 

Step 3: Set With Powder and/or Setting Spray

To ensure your base makeup lasts all day, it’s essential to set the products. Those with oily skin types may favor a setting powder, like the Dermablend Loose Setting Powder, while those on the drier side might appreciate a setting spray, like the Urban Decay All Nighter Vitamin C Setting Spray. For the ultimate lasting power, apply both a setting powder and a setting spray on top. 

Photo: Chaunte Vaughn